The Great Smoky Mountains
(With Emphasis on Great!)
After slack packing from Stecoah Gap to the Fontana Lake Dam. I had finally reached what North-Bounders would call the front porch of the Smoky Mountains. My 3pm arrival on a Tuesday afternoon was very subtle. I was surprised to find this majestic, manmade wonder to be very quite and desolate.
I walked down to the Dam’s Visitor Center, only to be disappointed to find a note on the door saying “Open May 1st”. The nearby gift shop left me with the same disappointment. So much for getting any Dam Souvenirs.
After telling my Mom, "Thank you and not to worry", I said, "Goodbye!" and made my way down to the shelter. I followed the sign that read, “Fontana Hilton Shelter 300 yards”. I suppose calling the shelter a “Hilton” meant that this was going to be a more luxurious experience than the shelters before. I envisioned a place with warm comfortable beds, running water, and modern day plumbing nestled quietly on the Lake’s edge. After I laid eyes on it, I was quickly brought back to the reality of being a Thru-Hiker.
It was a large barn like structure, painted red with a metal roof that was fenced off away from the Lake. There were no doors, only two large openings on opposite ends with a short walkway in between.
Inside, I discovered bunks that stretched the entire left and right sides of the walls, with no cushion from the hard wood surface. This fancy shelter was built to sleep a maximum of 20 hikers. I wasn’t really disappointed with the lack of electricity or running water, but I was a little about the Shelters proximity to the lake’s waters. The only access to the Lake was an overgrown foot path that dropped straight down 300 yards to one of the lakes less than desirable coves. The water seemed to be stagnant and not very appealing for an evening swim, so I opted out. I claimed my territory in the Shelter by laying out my Thermarest pad and Marmot Sleeping bag in a vacant spot beside the wall. There were already about 10 hikers lingering around the premises, chatting about what seems to be the most common topic of discussion; food.
With a belly full of Subway, I started collecting wood for the shelters fire pit. As darkness crept in, the fire was lit, and like bugs attracted to light, hikers began to gather. Since I was hiking faster than most, many of the faces were of new people which I hadn’t yet met. I introduced myself and got to know several fellow thru-hikers before retiring to bed around 10pm. I was so excited about hiking into the Smoky Mountains that I didn’t get much sleep.
The next morning I rose with anticipation with the rest of the shelters residence, only to realize that the weather would rather me be a little more patient. It was raining extremely hard outside, and I was left with the decision to wait it out or just go for it. So around 8:30am, and after an hour of waiting, I decided to make a break for the mountains in the rain. After putting my pack cover on, I suited up in my Columbia Titanium rain shell and Marmot Rain pants. I also decided that this adventure would be best shared with some music, so I loaded up Mumford and Sons on my Ipod and was off.
The next morning I rose with anticipation with the rest of the shelters residence, only to realize that the weather would rather me be a little more patient. It was raining extremely hard outside, and I was left with the decision to wait it out or just go for it. So around 8:30am, and after an hour of waiting, I decided to make a break for the mountains in the rain. After putting my pack cover on, I suited up in my Columbia Titanium rain shell and Marmot Rain pants. I also decided that this adventure would be best shared with some music, so I loaded up Mumford and Sons on my Ipod and was off.
(The picture above is one I took as I walked from the Fontana Hilton towards the Fontana Dam in the pouring rain.)
Even though the rain was coming down very hard, my rain gear with stood the torrential test and kept me mostly dry. I walked fairly slow over the Dam, enjoying the panoramic scenery all around me. Once I has crossed the Dam, I approached a sign that marked the beginning of my 70 mile journey through the Smoky Mountains.
As I started the climb into the woods and up the mountains, blue skys started appear and the rain has finally stopped. After climbing several thousand feet, I came to ShuckStack fire tower at the top of the mountain. I decided this would be a great place to stop for lunch. I climbed to the top of the tower, to a small 5 foot by 5 foot room. While unpacking my lunch, I started to hear voices and could feel footsteps climbing up to the tower. It was a group a 5 people, who I had met the night before by the campfire at the shelter. Once they reached me at the top of the tower, they decided it would be a good idea to join me for lunch. Together, Sage, Sunkist, Pyro, Hawk Run, Fate, and I ate our lunch in the tiny tower. Once we finished our lunch, we continued the afternoon's hike to Mollie's Ridge shelter together.
(view from the top)
(Left to Right: Sunkist, Pyro, Fate, Hawk Run, and Sage)
(Mollies Ridge Shelter)
Legend has it that this area and shelter are haunted. The area was named for a Cherokee Maiden who froze to death while looking for a lost hunter and that her ghost still haunts the ridge.
I wouldn't consider myself as scared of ghosts; but I was happy not to encounter this Mollie.
After setting up camp for the night, I enjoyed chatting with my new friends around the camp fire. I learned much more about them personally than the night before. I found out that Sage, who resides in Virginia, just retired from the navy after 20 years, and was finally pursuing his life long dream to hike the AT. On top of being a husband and father, he is also a published author and pursuing his Doctorate in Psychology. Pyro and Sunkist also shared stories about their experience being in the Marine Core.
(Inside and Out of Mollies Ridge Shelter)
The next morning, we ate a quick breakfast and were back on the trail. We didn't have as much climbing to do now that we were on top of the Smoky Mountain's ridge line.
With a dense fog blanketing the entire area, it didn't take long to understand why these mountains are called Smoky. The fog was dense but, every once in a while, it would open up for an awesome view of the valley and Fontana Lake off in the distance. As we hiked north, the A.T. follows much of the Tennessee/North Carolina state line. It was a really cool feeling to walk the ridged stateline. You could look left and see Tennessee and right to North Carolina, both directions offered views that a Painter would love to capture.
After two solid days of hiking with my friends, I boosted ahead of them to meet my Dad and P. Lane on top of Clingman's Dome.
Clingman's Dome is the highest point on the entire A.T. standing at 6,684 feet. An observation tower at the top offers a 360 degree view on the land down below. The thick layer of fog and precipitation ruined any chance of good views, but every step and climb I made, reminded me that I was quickly raising in elevation. After hiking 12 miles I had finally conquered the top of the Appalachian Trail.
I had originally planned to hike 8 more miles with my Dad from Clingman's Dome down to NewFound Gap where we would meet P.Lane and go into Gatlinburg for the remainder of the weekend. But since the weather was bad, and I was already tired, we decided to go into Gatlinburg from there.
This turned out to be a great decision. The next morning I returned to Clingman's Dome with my girlfriend with much more enjoyable weather. The sky was blue and the views were amazing. I was extremely happy not to miss this.
After enjoying the visiting the observation tower and enjoyed the view all around, Pam and I hit the trail. We slacked packed the 8 miles from the tower to Newfound Gap, where we had parked her car. The section was a very beautiful section, hiking through a dense forest of Fraser Firs and Hemlocks.
Unfortunately, many of these tree are dead or dying due to an exotic insect species called the Balsum Woolly Adelgid. This tiny bug will kill an entire tree within five years of an infestation. The National park Service is working hard to eradicate this problem and save whats left of their beloved trees.
After Pam and I returned to her car, we drove back down to Gatlinburg. We ate dinner at a restaurant called Blaines, where we both have a few friends that work there. Blaines Staff is very friendly! One of their Bartenders even donated an extra backpack to aid my journey, which works great for people who want to hike with me but do not have a pack.
While sitting on the second level balcony, I noticed my hiking friends walking along the street. I walked down to greet them and to discuss their plans for leaving Gatlinburg soon. They told me where their hotel room was and for me to come by once I said goodbye to Pam.
That Sunday night, Pam would have to leave and return home and I would join my friends for the night at the Grand Prix Motel. The Grand Prix Motel is on the edge of town and is well known for giving A.T. a great rate and quality service. I did my laundry and got some good rest.
We all woke up early the next morning and started figuring out how we would all get back to the trail. Sage, Sunkist, Fate, and Turtle all had a free shuttle scheduled for 9am provided by the NOC Outpost. Hawk Run and I would try our luck hitch hiking the 15 miles back to the trail, something I've never done before this trail. We made a cardboard sign that read, "AT Hikers to NewFound Gap", and it worked great. We had only waited about 5 minutes before being picked up by and extremely friendly man and woman. After a quick introduction and explanation of where we were headed, we learned that both of these kind people were former thru-hikers many years earlier. The woman was even attending a 30 year reunion with her hiking partners to celebrate their thru-hike in 1981. Once we arrived at Newfound Gap, we graciously thanked them for the kindness and took a quick photo for the memory book.
After an enjoyable weekend in Gatlinburg, I was ready to be back on the trail. When I approached the trail head, I noticed a sign that said 1,972 miles to Katahdin, Maine. This was the first sign indicating that we are heading to Maine.
With only 1,972 miles to go, I was back on the trail. The second half of the Smokey Mountains would proved to be just as awesome as the first.
After about 5 miles we came to a giant rock outcropping on top of the mountain, called Charle's Bunion. I asked my friend turtle to use the Panoramic app on my Iphone and take a picture of me. I climbed down to the rocks edge and absorbed as much of the fresh mountain air as possible. This area also made for a great place to eat lunch.
We continued on over the tops of the Smokies. The entire day was filled with breath taking views to the left and right.
We eventually came to the last major scenic point before departing the Smokey; Mount Cammerer. On top of Mount Cammerer is an observation tower with full wrap around deck, it very much resembles a Light House without the shining light.
Once we reached the top, we were pounded by 50 mph or more gusts of wind, and had to move carefully not to be blown off the mountains edge.
(view from Mount Cammerer)
After enjoying the view for a while we eventually moved on towards Davenport Gap. This would mark the end of our time spent in the Smokey Mountains. It was a somewhat bitter sweet moment to leave. I was happy to have completed the Smokies but sad to be leaving them behind.
The Smokey Mountains not only provided me with tons of exercise, gorgeous views, and loads of memories; but it also gave me the opportunity to make eight new friends who had now become my trail family.
Until next time, Happy Trails!
- TIN MAN
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